Colchester: Britain’s oldest recorded city founded in 43 CE.
Overview
Colchester was the first capital of Roman Britain and is Britain’s first recorded city, making it the oldest Roman city. It is located on the River Colne in Essex, and has been a Garrison town for 2,000 years. It has an 11th century Norman castle, built over a Roman Temple and two thirds of its Roman walls are intact. Colchester is home to Colchester Zoo, ranked as one of the top five zoos in the UK.
Roman History
Colchester was originally Camulodunun, an Iron Age stronghold to the west of modern Colchester, belonging to the Catuvellauni Tribe under King Cunobelinus, ‘King of the Britons’ (9-40 CE) located to the west of Colchester. By 25 CE, Cunobelin had acquired St. Albans and annexed Kent. After the Roman Conquest of Britannia (43 CE), Colchester was founded as Camulodunum, also known as Colonia Victricensis, and as the existing seat of regional power, became the Roman capital of the Province of Britannia between 43-60 CE. The Legion that built Camulodunum was the Legio XX Valeria Victrix. It was on a junction of two Roman Roads, the Pye Road to London and the Via Devana to Chester.
In 77 CE [yadawiki link=”Pliny the Elder”] recorded that [yadawiki link=”Anglesey”] was approximately 200 miles from Camulodunum. This is the first written reference of a Place Name in Britannia making it Britain’s oldest recorded city, and the first city in Britain to be awarded the title of Colonia.
Colchester was the location of the beginning of Boudicca's Revolt, where Colchester and the Temple of Claudius were burnt to the ground. Boudicca went on to burn London and St. Albans, before being defeated at the Battle of Watling Street. After this, in 60 CE, the capital was moved permanently to London.
Medieval History
In 527 CE, Colchester became a city in the Saxon Kingdom of Essex. Between 869-917 CE, the Vikings briefly incorporated the city into the ‘Danelaw‘. In 917 it was ‘saved’ by the Saxon King Edward the Elder. After the Norman Conquest of 1066 it became a Norman stronghold with a castle and an abbey and a thriving port. The medieval harbour was at Hythe, today’s Hythe Hill. A major textile industry developed after the arrival of Flemish Protestants during 16th century, when Colchester’s main trading partner became Bruges. By 1600, Colchester had become the seventh wealthiest wool town in England, up from twelfth in 1524.
Things to Do and Places to See in Colchester
1. Colchester Castle Museum
Colchester Castle Musuem
Description: Colchester Castle is a Norman castle begun in 1076 and completed by Henry I (1100-1135). It was built over the sizeable Roman Temple of Claudius. This had two effects, it placed the Keep in the centre of the town, rather than on the outside which was unusual for a Norman Keep, and also gave it an area of 152 by 112 feet (46 m × 34 m), making it the largest Keep in Europe by area. The Castle Walls are made of reused Roman Brick and Stone from the old Roman Town.
Historical Insight: Eudo Dapifer (aka Eudo Fitz-Hubert) (c.1055-1120), the High Steward to William the Conqueror, his son William II and his brother Henry I, built the castle and became its first Constable. Eudo also built the nearby St. John’s Abbey, was gifted lands in Essex, including the town of Colchester, and eventually made Constable of the Tower of London. The castle itself, is thought to have been designed by Gundulf Bishop of Rochester, who designed Rochester Castle and the White Tower at the Tower of London, all three of which share strong similarities. Opinion is divided as to whether the castle originally had three or four storeys, or if it only ever had two.
Tip: Inside the castle is the Colchester Museum which holds Roman exhibits including the Colchester Sphinx, Mosaics and other artefacts.
2. Vaults of the Roman Temple of Claudius
Description: The Temple of Claudius was built between 54-60 CE, on the same scale as Temples in Rome. Today only the vaults and podium remain and are now underneath Colchester Castle. Access to the Roman vaults is from inside the castle.
Historical Insight: It was one of eight pagan Roman Temples in Britain and was the largest of its kind. The Temple was built in the impressive octastyle with columns running down the sides, and was dedicated to Claudius and the Cult of the Roman Emperor.
3. The Obelisk in Castle Park
Obelisk, Castle Park, Colchester
Description: The Obelisk is located in Upper Castle Park (which is free to enter) behind the Castle. Continue towards Middle Mill Weir and you will see the Old City Wall to the right.
Historical Insight: The Obelisk marks the execution spot of two defending Royalist Captains Sir Charles Lucas and Sir George Lisle, who were executed by Sir Thomas Fairfax, the Parliamentary General of the New Model Army on August 28, 1648, after the 11-week Siege of Colchester during the English Civil War (1642-51).
4. Hollytrees museum
Hollytrees Museum, Colchester
Description: Located beside Colchester castle, ‘Hollytrees’ is a Grade I listed Georgian townhouse that was constructed in 1719. Since 1929 it has been the local history museum for Colchester and also houses the Visitor Information Centre. The Bernard Mason Gallery holds a collection of watches and clocks dating from the 17th century, which includes lantern clocks by William Bacon, John Smorthwait and Nathaniel Hedge.
Tip: There are displays of vintage toys and games, and the history of the nursery rhyme ‘Twinkle, Twinkle, Little Star’ and its connection to Colchester.
5. Colchester War Memorial
Colchester War Memorial
Description: Located in front of the castle, the Memorial is a Grade II listed monument which includes the surrounding posts, lamp columns, railings and gates. The Portland stone pedestal has three bronze figures created by the sculptor Henry Fehr, a Statue of Nike, Goddess of Victory (on top), a Statue of St. George and a Statue of Peace. The Memorial is one of 50 in Colchester.
6. Firstsite
Firstsite, Colchester
Description: Firstsite is a free exhibition, film and events site with a cafe and shop. Completed in 2011 by Rafael Vinoly Architects, design winners from over 100 contestants, the highly distinctive gold crescent shaped building clad in copper-aluminium houses the contemporary visual arts centre and museum.
Historical Insight: The museum holds the Berryfield Roman Mosaic dating from 200 CE. This was first unearthed in 1923 as the dining room floor of a Roman townhouse, over which the Firstsite building now stands.
7. Natural History Museum
Natural History Museum, Colchester
Description: Since 1958, this free museum is located opposite Colchester castle in the atmospheric former 12th century All Saints’ Church. The flint tower was built in the 15th century. The museum has interactive displays, and many exhibits to learn about animals, birds and insects.
Tip: The museum includes a woolly mammoth.
8. Roman Theatre in Maidenburgh Street
Roman Theatre in Maidenburgh street, Colchester
Description: Located in the town centre, near to the castle, the D shaped Theatre is no longer visible above ground. Built in the 2nd-3rd centuries, it would have had seating for 3,000 spectators. The top of the curved wall has been excavated and is on display.
Historical Insight: Colchester had two Roman Theatres, the other at Gosbecks located 2 miles (3.5km) southwest of Colchester. A Roman Circus track for chariot racing has also been excavated and lies underneath Colchester Garrison. However, there is no trace of the Roman amphitheatre.
9. East Stockwell Street
Peake’s House, E. Stockwell Street, Colchester
Description: This is in the Dutch Quarter, an area located just north of the High Street, which became the home in the 1570’s of Flemish Protestant refugees, who had fled religious persecution after a rebellion against Catholic Spain was defeated by the Duke of Alba.
The area includes Maidenburgh Street, East Stockwell Street, West Stockwell Street, Quaker’s Alley, St. Helen’s Lane, Northgate Street and Nunn’s Road. Some of the houses predate the 1570’s, such as Peake’s House (featured above) dating from the 14th-15th centuries, which is a combination of three houses 30, 31 and 32. It is currently let by the Landmark Trust, but owned by Colchester Borough Council, who open it to the Public for one week in September.
10. West Stockwell Street
W. Stockwell Street, Colchester
Description: West Stockwell Street is also in the Dutch Quarter, a group of historic streets known for their timber-framed buildings with a number listed as Grade I and II.
Historical Insight: The area grew in the 16th century with the arrival of Flemish Protestant Refugees known as the ‘Dutch Weavers’, but who also came from Belgium, the Netherlands and France to escape persecution. They built houses with distinctive large windows for maximising the light for weaving and created a textile industry in Colchester. They produce a type of cloth known as ‘Bey’. Over sixty of these historic houses still stand today, including Taylor House at 11-12 W. Stockwell Street.
11. Colchester Town Hall and High Street
Colchester Town Hall
Description: This Grade I listed building was completed in 1902 in the Edwardian Baroque style, and is the third Town Hall to be built on the site. The first was built in 1277. A number of events take place in the magnificent Moot Hall, such as Christmas and New Year’s Parties and the Colchester Oyster Feast. The Tower stands at a height of 192 feet (59m), and was built to commemorate Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee.
The facade features six life-size statues of key figures in Colchester’s history, created by L.J. Watts in 1902. From left to right Eudo Dapifer (Founder of St. John’s Abbey), Queen Boudicca (The Iceni Queen who burnt Colchester when she rebelled against Rome), Saint Helena (Patron Saint of Colchester), King Edward the Elder (who saved Colchester from the Vikings in 917), William Gilbert (Discoverer of electromagnetism) and St. Paul. The tower is topped by a bronze statue of St. Helena.
The High Street follows the alignment of the main Roman east-west street, the Decumanus Maximus. It is a vibrant hub holding an interesting mix of independent shops, bars, restaurants and cafes. The Red Lion pub was built in 1465.
12. Jumbo Water Tower
Jumbo Water Tower, Colchester
Description: Located near the Balkerne Gate, the Victorian water tower was built in 1883 and is the largest water tower in the UK. The tower has a height of 131 feet (40m) and used 1,2 million bricks. It is a Grade II listed building which ceased to be used as a water tower in 1987, and although there have been various projects to convert the tower, it currently remains unused. It stands beside the Mercury Theatre.
Historical Insight: It was nicknamed ‘Jumbo’ in 1883, by an annoyed local resident and the name has stood the test of time.
13. Mercury theatre
Mercury Theatre, Colchester
Description: Located beside the Balkerne Gate and Jumbo Tower, the venue has two auditoria and offers performances of drama, comedy and music. The design is identical to the Salisbury Playhouse. Trevor Howard began his career with the Colchester Repertory Company and Productions at the Mercury have included works by John Cleese and Martin Clunes.
14. Balkerne Gate and Roman Walls
Balkerne Gate and the Hole in the Wall pub
Description: The Balkerne Gate is one of the largest surviving Roman Gateways in Britain. The Roman walls are 1.7 miles (2.8km) long, 7 feet (2.4m) wide and were originally 19 feet (6m) high. Two Gates have survived from the original six and there are medieval bastions that support the Wall. The Hole in the Wall Pub sits beside the Gate.
Historical Insight: Colchester Roman City Walls are two thirds intact and can be walked around. They were constructed between 65-80 CE, immediately after Boudicca's Revolt (60-61 CE), when Camulodunum was razed to the ground, and the need for protective walls became clear.
Balkerne Gate, Colchester
15. Colchester Arts Centre
Colchester Arts Centre
Description: Located in a former 13th century church of St. Mary-at-the-Walls, the Arts Centre opened in 1980 and holds shows, live music and workshops and a regular Farmer’s Market. Comedians and Bands who have played here include Eddie Izzard, Jo Brand and Harry Hill, Coldplay and The Strokes.
16. Holy Trinity Church
Holy Trinity Church, Colchester
Description: Located on Trinity Street, opposite the city library, this is the oldest church in Colchester. It has an Anglo-Saxon tower dating from 1020. The churchyard includes the graves of the discoverer of electromagnetism and physician to Elizabeth I, William Gilberd and of Composer John Wilbye. The church has been closed to the Public since 1997.
17. Trinity street and ‘The South Lanes’ Area
Trinity Street, Colchester
Description: Trinity Street was recently voted to be one of Colchester’s most atmospheric streets and hosts interesting buildings, independent shops and quirky cafes.
Tip: It is part of ‘The South Lanes’ area, a scenic neighbourhood that includes Sir Isaac’s Walk, Eld Lane and Scheregate Steps.
18. City Wall: Priory Road Car Park
Medieval Wall Priory Street, Colchester
Description: The City Wall is intact along the length of Priory Road Car Park and the rampart behind it supports Castle Park above.
Historical Insight: The wall was originally constructed by the Romans between 65-80 CE, and is composed of mudstone and Roman bricks with a rubble core. During the 2nd century CE, an internal earth rampart was added for extra strength. The city wall was maintained during the medieval period but today only one of its six gates remains, the Balkerne Gate in the east.
19. St. Botolph Priory Ruins
St. Botolph Priory Ruins, Colchester
Description: Founded in 1093 CE as the first Augustinian Priory in England, it is a Grade I listed Monument. The 11th century Priory is now managed by English Heritage.
Historical Insight: The house was headed by a Prior and 12 Canons, and was the senior Augustinian Priory in England. The Priory was an extensive landowner and possessed several mills. For most of its existence it was locked in a rivalry with the adjacent St. John’s Abbey. Despite being dissolved in 1536, the Priory remained more or less intact until the Siege of Colchester in 1648, when it was bombarded and reduced to its current state of ruin.
20. St. Botolph’s church
St. Botolph’s Church
Description: Built in 1837 in the style of the 12th century St. Botolphe’s Parish church which it replaced, this new church was designed to accommodate 1,080 people. It features a distinctive white brick tower, which was nicknamed at the time ‘The White Elephant’. During WWII, the church was almost destroyed by air raids and had its own team of fire wardens to deal with incendiary bombs.
Further Afield
21. St. John’s Abbey Gatehouse
St. John’s Abbey Gatehouse, Colchester
Description: The Gatehouse is all that remains of the former Benedictine abbey. Eudo Dapifer, the High Steward to King William II (William Rufus), founded St. John’s as a Priory in 1096, but it was granted Abbey status in 1104 and completed in 1115.
Historical Insight: A long-standing rivalry developed between the Abbey and the townspeople and also with St. Botolphe’s Augustinian Priory nearby. The Abbey maintained its ships at Brightlingsea. During the Wars of the Roses (1455-1487), Richard III stayed at the Abbey several times. After the Dissolution of the Monasteries in 1536, John Beche, the last Abbot, was tried and executed in 1539, as one of the three Abbots (Colchester, Glastonbury and Reading) who refused to hand over their Abbeys. The remains of the abbey were destroyed during the Siege of Colchester during the English Civil War (1642-51).
22. Roman Circus Visitor Centre
Roman Circus Visitor Centre, Colchester
Description: Dedicated to the only known Roman chariot racing track in Britain. Discovered in 2004, the Circus appears to have accommodated up to 8,000 spectators for chariot races. Visitors can walk part of the outline of the circus, see reconstructed stumps of the starting-gates and central gateway.
Tip: Inside the Visitor Centre is a replica of a Roman racing-chariot and charioteer, audio-visual displays, a model of Roman Colchester in 200 CE and a scale model of the Roman Circus itself.
23. Butt Road Roman Church
Butt Road Roman Church, Colchester
Description: The remains are located just off the Maldon road roundabout beside the Police Station. The church was located during excavations by the Victorian Archeologist William Wire who thought it was a Roman temple.
Historical Insight: Built between 320-340 CE and in use until c.400 CE, it is now considered to be one of the first Christian churches to be built in Britain, as it is aligned east-west with a curved eastern end. A cemetery was also found with 371 burials, 61 of which were oriented east-west, along with a hoard of 500 Roman coins dating to 330 CE.
24. Middle Mill Weir
Middle Mill Weir, Colchester
Description: Located on the River Colne in Lower Castle Park, The Middle Mill Weir was a 900 year old structure regulating the river flow. However, due to a surge in December 2023, the Weir collapsed and is no longer in use. The footbridge was replaced and the river can still be crossed on foot.
25. North Bridge
Cottages view, North Bridge, Colchester
Description: This historic Cast Iron Grade II listed bridge was built in 1843, in the same year as the Railway arrived from London. It has three arches carrying North Station Road over the river Colne. It replaced an older medieval bridge. Beside it are Grade I and II listed cottages.
Nearby Attractions
1. Lexden Earthworks and Bluebottle Grove
Description: Iron Age Fort 10 minutes drive from Colchester town centre.
2. Roman Theatre of Gosbecks
Description: Located 2m (3.5km) southeast of the town centre, it was D shaped and could hold 5,000 people. It was an earth embankment surrounded by a Kentish Ragstone wall, which has now gone.
Colchester Zoo
3. Colchester Zoo
Colchester Zoo
Description: 15 minute drive from Colchester town centre. The Zoo is located in a 60 acre country park on the Maldon road, Heckfordbridge, Essex, which lies 4 miles (6km) southwest of Colchester. The Zoo was opened in 1963 and has been featured on TV and Radio. It is home to approximately 240 different species from around the world, some of which are rare and endangered.
Tip: The collection includes Rainbow lorikeets, Aldabra Giant Tortoise, Koi carp, Madagascar Lemurs, Otters, Gibbons, Burmese Pythons, Red Pandas, Giraffes, Rhinoceros, African Bush Elephants, Cheetahs, Spotted Hyenas, Mandrills, Warthogs, South American Sea Lions, Bornean Orangutangs, Komodo Dragons, Amur Tigers, Sun Bears, Meerkats, Green Anaconda, Linnaeus’s Two Toed Sloths, Chimpanzees, Crocodiles, Monkeys, Iguanas, Andean Condors, King Vultures and many more species.
4. Beth Chatto’s plants and gardens
Description: 20 minute drive from Colchester town centre. This is a world famous plant nursery created by Award winning plantswoman Beth Chatto OBE. The gardens are maintained using sustainable methods.
Colchester Walking Tour (2-3 hrs)
- Your geolocation will appear as a blue icon that moves on the map as you walk.
- You may start anywhere on the map and just follow the blue line to the next point of interest.
Travel Tips
- Best time to visit: Spring and autumn for mild weather and fewer tourists.
- Photography hotspots: Colchester castle, Castle Park, Dutch Quarter
- Nearby Attractions: Colchester Zoo
Visitor FAQ
- What is Colchester famous for?
- First recorded city in Britain and oldest Roman city known as Camulodunum.
- 11th century Norman Keep, one of the largest in Europe.
- Vaults of the Roman Temple of Claudius underneath the castle.
- Two thirds of the Roman town walls are still intact.
- Holds the remains of the only known Roman chariot racing track in Britain.
- Jane Taylor, who wrote the nursery rhyme ‘Twinkle, twinkle, little star’ in 1806, lived and wrote in Colchester.
- Military town, there has been a garrison present for 2,000 years.
- Colchester is famous for its native Oysters from the river Colne, which are celebrated with an annual Oyster Feast every October since 1540. The oysters are harvested between September to April.
- In 1884, Colchester experienced a major earthquake that damaged or destroyed 1,200 buildings.
- The booming cloth industry led to the term “on tenterhooks,” which refers to the tenter frames used to dry cloth.
- Can I see Roman Ruins in Colchester?
- Yes. The Temple of Claudius, Roman city walls, Roman Theatre in Maidenburgh Street.
- How far is Colchester Zoo from Colchester city centre?
- Approximately 15 minutes by car.
- Why does Colchester have a Norman castle but no Norman cathedral?
- Because Colchester came under the Diocese of London where the Bishop resided. However, Colchester was the location for two major Abbeys, St. John’s and St. Botolph’s.
- Are there Guided Tours of Colchester historical sites?
- Yes, local guides offer walking tours highlighting the Castle, the Old Town and other venues.
- Is Camulodunum the same as Colchester?
- Yes, Colchester was founded by the Romans as Camulodunum in 43 CE.
- Which Roman Province was Colchester located in?
- What was the role of Camulodunum (Colchester) in the Roman Empire?
- Canterbury served as the first capital of Britannia and was a key economic hub and port.
- Was there a Roman Mint at Colchester?
- Yes. During the breakaway Britannic Empire (293-296 CE), the ‘Emperors’ Carausius (287-293 CE) and Allectus operated a Roman Mint at Colchester in conjunction with London. The Mint Marks on their coins show: ‘C’ and ‘CL’.
- Which Roman Roads connected Colchester?
Quick Facts
- Modern Location: Colchester, England
- Category: Historic city centre, Norman castle, tourist destination
- Activities: Walking tours, sightseeing, photography
- Nearby Roman Site: Vaults of the Roman Temple of Claudius under Colchester castle
- Nearest Roman road: Via Devana, Pye Road.
- Roman Province: Britannia
